Retinoid for beginners The original version of this article was reviewed by Dr. Corey L. Hartman, dermatologist Retinoids are skincare’s cream of the crop, and for good reason: helping to improve signs of ageing, breakouts, clogged pores and the appearance of post-breakout dark spots. To best reap retinoid benefits, it’s important to understand how to use them safely & effectively. What you can expect: What are retinoids? How do retinoids work? What are the benefits of retinoids? Are retinoids good for skin? When should you start using retinoids? How to use retinoids Types of retinoids Can you use retinoids with other actives? Retinoid tips & tricks What are retinoids? Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, an antioxidant and nutrient that’s necessary for the production of healthy skin. In fact, vitamin A has over 70 years of research behind its ability to help improve skin’s health and appearance. What’s more, new research expanding on its benefits continues to roll out. Think of “retinoid” as an umbrella term used to cover everything from vitamin A, including retinol and retinaldehyde. Essentially, retinoids are cell-communicating ingredients that coach the skin and prompt it to turn over cells and act in a younger, healthier manner. This is important because as we age, our cell turnover process slows down, leading to visible age-related changes. However, no two retinoids are the same as they vary in strength. You see, skin can be a bit picky: for the skin to ‘accept’ a retinoid as a work partner, it must go through an enzymatic conversion process and break down into retinoic acid. For example, retinyl palmitate requires three conversion steps to become retinoic acid, retinol requires two and retinaldehyde requires one. The fewer conversion steps a retinoid requires, generally, the stronger it is. Retinoids are also known for their strong, natural bioactive yellow-to-orange colour. But no worries! Vitamin A is simply a naturally colourful raw material. How do retinoids work? Retinoids are cell communicators that work with the skin in a complex manner. After they convert into retinoic acid, they give skin instructions to complete certain tasks. Some of these tasks include prompting skin to turn over cells in a youthful manner and coaxing skin to create substances that help promote firmness. Retinoids also work as antioxidants, protecting skin from environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution. What are the benefits of retinoids? Retinoids are often hailed for their anti-ageing abilities, but this group of ingredients has lots more skin benefits. Although they vary based on structure and how your skin handles them, most retinoids are known to: Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Visibly improve firmness by telling skin to create youth-promoting substances that visibly support the skin’s architecture. Reduce the occurrence of bumps and clogged pores on the skin, making them particularly suitable for acne-prone skin. Some retinoids also help prevent clogged pores as they can even help to balance oil production. Tackle the look of large pores. Target uneven tone and the dark spots that come from sun damage, ageing and breakouts. Help protect skin against damage from external aggressors. Left unchecked, this damage can go on to cause wrinkles, dullness, crepiness and an uneven tone. Are retinoids good for skin? Retinoids are one of the most-researched groups of cosmetic ingredients with a long-standing record of safety and effectiveness. Dermatologist Dr. Hartman adds, “Tazarotene is arguably one of the best and most effective, particularly for people with melanated skin." Although retinoids are safe, it’s recommended to avoid retinoids (particularly tretinoin) when pregnant or breastfeeding because excess retinoid exposure can be harmful during this period. Dr. Hartman further explains this guidance: “There’s no evidence to support this when referencing topical retinoids. This came from extrapolated studies of oral isotretinoin and the original tazarotene trials when it was approved for psoriasis and used on large body surface areas of skin with a compromised skin barrier.” However, the careful route is to avoid it during pregnancy. Most avid skincare users have few issues with a retinoid that fits their skin type and concerns. However, as heavyweight active ingredients, retinoids can incur side effects, including: Redness in light skin tones & dark or purple tones in dark skin tones where the retinoid has been applied. Dryness or flaking. Sensitivity, itchiness or a tight feeling. A sunburn-like warmth, with or without redness. If you experience any of the above, you have a few options: 1. Reduce the number of times you apply your retinoid product, e.g. instead of once a day, try three times a week. 2. Experiment with using a more moderate or low-strength retinoid and see how your skin responds, if you think that the concentration of your retinoid product is the issue. Remember, some retinoids are still impactful at low concentrations, so you don’t have to worry about less visible results. 3. Try the “sandwich” method, which is applying a retinoid between two layers of a hydrating, soothing serum or moisturiser. When should you start using retinoids? It’s recommended to start using retinoids for anti-ageing purposes in your twenties, as this is when the skin’s natural cell turnover process and its ability to produce skin-firming substances start to slow down. Using retinoids before your twenties for anti-ageing benefits makes little sense, as the skin is still functioning in a healthy, youthful manner. The exception: teens can consider retinoids to tackle acne-prone skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for a prescription or to discuss over-the-counter retinoid options if you’re experiencing stubborn breakouts in adolescence. How to use retinoids We recommend slotting retinoids into your PM skincare routine as they can increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays. First cleanse, tone and exfoliate with a leave-on exfoliant. Then follow with the rest of your skincare in order of thinnest to thickest texture, including your retinoid product. Finally, wrap up your routine with a barrier-focused moisturiser during the night and SPF if you do want to use retinoid during the day. When first incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine, start with 2-3 times a week. After the skin acclimates, increase to once or twice a day, based on the skin’s tolerance. Also, pay attention to packaging. Retinoids are antioxidants and hence highly sensitive to light and air. So, your formula needs to be in airtight and opaque containers to stay safe and effective. Avoid retinoids in glass jars all together! Types of retinoids Many types of retinoids make appearances in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products and prescription creams, lotions and gels. As we touched on before, retinoids vary greatly based on their structure, concentration and their conversion process. So, let’s break down the most popular topical retinoids below. Retinaldehyde Retinaldehyde (AKA retinal) is one of the most popular and powerful retinoids. It requires one conversion step to impact skin, meaning it’s stronger and faster than retinol. The research says that its strength doesn’t make it less tolerable than retinol, partially because of advancements in formulary approaches, like encapsulation). Encapsulation is essentially wrapping active ingredients in a more tolerable ingredient that allows the core active to remain stable for longer and get to where it needs to be in the skin. Retinaldehyde is not only a tried-and-true anti-ageing hero that reduces the appearance of skin laxity (fine lines and wrinkles), it is also useful for preventing clogged pores, balancing oil production and improve the look of breakout-prone skin. It does this partially due to its ability to offset the underlying causes of breakouts. Retinaldehyde is a great option for you if you’re unsatisfied with the results you’re experiencing with retinol. We also love it for adults struggling with signs of ageing and breakouts at the same time. This potent retinoid is considered safe for the skin, is available over the counter and is commonly used in products in concentrations between 0.05% and 0.1%. Tretinoin Tretinoin, the reigning monarch of retinoids. Tretinoin is the synthetic version of retinoic acid, meaning it requires no conversion to work with the skin and is the most potent retinoid. It’s also sometimes referred to as all-trans retinoic acid. Because of its potency, it’s only available by prescription. It’s the gold standard when it comes to anti-ageing and anti-acne. Not only does it help reduce the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles as well as dark spots and hyperpigmentation, but it also helps to promote firmness, improve texture, brighten and, of course, help to treat acne. It’s the go-to prescription retinoid for skin with stubborn concerns, acne-prone skin, skin with sun damage and those facing more advanced signs of ageing. Tretinoin is one of the most researched ! However, because of its strength, it can cause sensitivity. To combat this, make sure to use a gentle, fragrance-free skincare routine which includes a nourishing toner, soothing serum, hydrating moisturiser and SPF alongside tretinoin. Adapalene Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that doesn’t convert to retinoic acid because it doesn’t need to! It works directly with skin, giving out commands once applied topically to get it to act more healthily, more efficiently and to stop producing clogged pores. For many, it’s considered a top retinoid pick when looking to combat acne, oily skin and enlarged pores. Adapalene has a few claims to fame. Firstly, in most countries you can access it both as a 0.1% gel over the counter or in higher strengths (such as 0.3%) and different product formats with a prescription. Secondly, although adapalene is a potent retinoid that works with the skin without conversion, it’s been proven to be better tolerated than tretinoin (retinoic acid). Oleyl adapalenate Oleyl adapalenate (AKA Adapinoid®) is a synthetic third-generation retinoid. It’s a precursor of adapalene, a unique retinoid that works with skin quite differently to traditional retinoids. Oleyl adapalenate doesn’t need to convert into retinoic acid for the skin to be able to work with it. Instead, it converts into adapalene, which the skin can work with directly. When applied topically, this retinoid helps promote even tone and texture due to its ability to prevent the formation of clogs and help balance oil production, which in turn minimises the appearance of pores. Like most retinoids, oleyl adapalenate also has key anti-ageing benefits, including improvements in skin tone, firmness and reducing the appearance of laxity. Oleyl adapalenate is a great retinoid for those with more stubborn skin concerns, oily skin or clogged pores. Concentrations between 0.1% and 0.5% are recommended for leave-on skincare products. Fun fact: Because it’s not a form of retinol, it doesn’t have a yellow-to-orange colour! Instead, it appears as white-to-off-white. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (AKA Granactive Retinoid and HPR) is another unique retinoid. It differs from other vitamin A derivatives in that it’s not a form of retinol but of retinoic acid itself! That means it gets to cut the line when it comes to the conversion process and only requires one step. This retinoid is relatively new and more stable than older vitamin A derivatives. HPR has both anti-ageing and clog-reducing benefits. It specialises in remedying the ageing damage associated with sun exposure, like blotchy tone, dark spots, rough texture and fine lines and wrinkles. This ingredient is a good alternative for those who experience sensitisation when using retinoic acid (AKA tretinoin). Because of its structure, it can positively impact skin at concentrations as low as 0.02%. Retinyl propionate Retinyl propionate is a synthetic form of vitamin A. It’s created through the combination of retinol and propionic acid, a fatty acid. Although it requires three conversions to become retinoic acid, its unique structure allows it to have a longer stretch of efficacy on the skin, making it both gentle and impactful. It retains most of the benefits of retinol when applied to the skin, including a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as dark spots and the ability to tackle signs of damage related to sun exposure. This retinol form is a great choice for sensitive skin looking for an alternative to retinol or retinaldehyde with early to intermediate skin concerns and is usually used in formulas in concentrations between 0.1% and 0.4%. Retinyl palmitate Retinyl palmitate is a milder retinoid (it requires three conversion steps to become retinoic acid) that works at a slower rate than retinol and retinaldehyde. It’s created through the combination of retinol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid. It's commonly used as an anti-ageing antioxidant and is a good retinoid option if you have dry, sensitive skin or experience any early signs of damage or ageing. The research says that it’s safe for topical application on the skin and is commonly used in products at concentration levels between 0.1% and 0.5%. Fun fact: this is the form of vitamin A that skin naturally stores for protection. Prescription vs. over-the-counter retinoids Retinoids are available as prescription and over-the-counter skincare products. The key difference between retinoids accessible over the counter and those only available via a prescription is strength. Generally, more potent retinoids are available as prescriptions (like tretinoin, higher strength adapalene products and tazarotene) whereas retinoids that are milder, (like retinaldehyde and retinol) are available over the counter. Prescription topical retinoids tend to work faster, simply because they don’t have to spend time converting into retinoic acid. However, this doesn’t mean that over-the-counter retinoids aren’t effective! Beyond prescription topical retinoids, there are also prescription oral retinoids like isotretinoin (formerly Accutane®) which aids in cases of severe acne. Oral retinoids are more potent than topical retinoids and are only prescribed in advanced cases of skin conditions, such as cystic or nodular acne or cases of acne that haven’t responded well to anything else. Can you use retinoids with other active ingredients? Yes, you can use retinoids with other active ingredients. The idea that you can’t is based on misinformation and outdated research. However, it’s crucial that you monitor your skin’s response when introducing new actives. Using retinoids and chemical exfoliants, like BHA and AHAs, whether in the same routine or on alternating nights, can enhance visible results. Many think combining these two can over-exfoliate the skin, however it is a myth that retinoids exfoliate skin; they simply encourage normal cell turnover. Including vitamin C and retinoids within the same skincare routine isn’t something to avoid, but instead a recipe for protection against environmental damage. Both ingredients are antioxidants, working to fend off external aggressors like pollution and UV rays, that can go on to incur pro-ageing damage to the skin. Now, let’s get to the bottom of using niacinamide and retinoids together. Niacinamide is a barrier-enhancing ingredient that helps to soothe skin. Using niacinamide in a routine with retinoids can help the skin better tolerate retinoids, avoiding some of the sensitivity some people can incur when using them. Both niacinamide and retinoids also have anti-ageing properties, as well as the potential to balance oil production and reduce the appearance of pores. Using the two together lets them supercharge each other in a way that won't harm your skin. Retinoid tips & tricks Retinoids work best when included in a skincare routine that prioritises sun-safe practices and is filled with antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Sun-safe practices include a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ that you reapply every two hours when exposed to UV rays. Wearing wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, long-sleeved shirts and long trousers that have a UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) rating is also advised. Finally, it's important to remember that skincare requires a cocktail approach for visible results and optimal skin health. Retinoids are brilliant additions to this essential approach when used safely and responsibly. 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